Remote Iceland: itinerary across Fjords, North Iceland and the Snæfellsnes Peninsula
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Looking for inspiration to plan your next trip to Iceland? We explored some of the country’s most spectacular back roads in search of the remote landscapes of North Iceland and the fjords — places that might inspire your own adventure. Join us as we discover breathtaking scenery that most organized tours never include.
If you’re also looking for information about South Iceland and the Reykjavík Peninsula, you might enjoy our complete two-week itinerary, packed with practical tips from our firsthand experience and answers to the questions we’re most often asked by fellow travelers.
Seydisfjördur and East Fjords
This is the second part of our Iceland road trip itinerary across Fjords, North Iceland and the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, taking us through places that are certainly less touristy, yet just as fascinating. Along the way, we’ll occasionally leave behind the wide and comfortable Ring Road 1 that accompanied us during the first part of the journey — if you haven’t read that article yet, you can find it here — and venture onto secondary roads, often unpaved, making good use of our 4x4 on the more challenging stretches.
The East Fjords
Iceland’s East Fjords are one of the country’s least-traveled regions. Driving through the area between Egilsstaðir and Höfn means tackling panoramic roads that are as beautiful as they are demanding, winding through deep inlets, steep mountains, and charming fishing villages.
We traveled here in September, when most roads are still accessible with a suitable 4x4 vehicle, provided you keep an eye on the weather. In winter, snow, ice, and strong winds can make certain stretches difficult or temporarily closed, so staying constantly updated on road conditions is essential.
Driving slowly here isn’t just a matter of safety — it’s also the best way to truly enjoy the landscape. The East Fjords reward you with stunning views around every bend: mountains plunging into the sea, dramatic cliffs, lonely lighthouses…
Tips for visiting the East Fjords:
The most scenic routes are secondary roads 92, 93, 94, and 96.
The village of Borgarfjörður Eystri and the Hafnarhólmi promontory, where you can spot hundreds of puffins from May until mid-August.
The village of Seyðisfjörður, famous for its iconic little church at the end of a rainbow-painted street. It’s also one of Iceland’s main ferry ports if you arrive by sea: this is where the Smyril Line ferries dock after departing from Hirtshals in Denmark, with the option to stop in the Faroe Islands as well. It’s one of our bucket-list dreams — sooner or later we’d love to return to Iceland this way.
Stuðlagil Canyon
Stuðlagil Canyon can be visited from two different sides, and fellow travelers often ask us whether the East side or the West side is better. In reality, both have their own distinctive features, which we’d summarize like this:
East Side: You’ll need to walk a little, but the views are unquestionably more spectacular, since you can get very close to the basalt columns.
Coming from the Ring Road, take the detour onto gravel road 923 and follow the signs for Klaustursel. Before the bridge, you’ll find a first parking area, but if you have a 4x4, cross the bridge and turn immediately right, continuing for another 2 km on a rather rough gravel track until you reach the second parking area.
From there, it’s about 3 km each way on foot, mostly flat. Allow around two hours round trip — starting from the second parking lot saves you roughly 4 km overall.
West Side: Much easier to access, but the view is more limited and far less scenic, since the canyon is seen from an elevated viewing platform.
How to get there: from the Ring Road, take gravel road 923 and follow the signs to Grund. At the end of the road, you’ll find a parking area about 200 meters from the viewpoint, which is reached via a steep staircase.
Be careful with the photos you see on Instagram — the water isn’t always bright blue! Its color actually depends on the season. The striking contrast between the basalt columns and the emerald water is usually visible only from mid-June to mid-August. During the rest of the year, you’ll have to settle for the equally fascinating, though definitely less photogenic, brownish-grey version of the river.
North Iceland
After exploring the East Fjords, we hit the road once again, this time heading toward Lake Mývatn. Located in the northern part of the country, the lake lies within a vast volcanic region shaped over thousands of years by constant eruptions, lava fields, and geothermal activity that is still incredibly intense and visible today. To reach it, we rejoin the Ring Road 1.
Driving along this stretch was a unique experience that kept Francesca glued to the window and gave us the feeling of slowly entering a lunar landscape. Along the way, the scenery gradually shifted from rugged coastlines to immense black lava fields blanketed in moss, barren highlands, and mountains that seemed to belong to another planet.
Hverir Geothermal Area
Hverir is a geothermal area near Lake Mývatn where you can see steaming fumaroles, bubbling mud pools surrounded by colorful sulfur crystals, all set within a striking ochre-colored landscape.
Be prepared: this place is incredibly scenic, but the sulfur gives the entire area a strong smell that can sometimes be quite unpleasant. Also, make sure to bring a mosquito net or at least a neck gaiter and sunglasses to protect your face from the annoying midges that swarm around the Mývatn area.
Lake Mývatn
Formed more than 2,000 years ago following a violent eruption of the Krafla volcanic system, the Mývatn region is a surreal landscape where black lava fields, exploded craters, steaming fumaroles, and geothermal springs coexist around the lake itself.
The surface of the lake — one of the largest in Iceland — is dotted with more than fifty small islands and pseudocraters, created by steam explosions trapped beneath incandescent lava flows. Even simply driving around the lake is a rewarding experience, with endless opportunities for photography.
Among the places around the lake that we loved the most:
Hverfjall Crater — one of the world’s largest and most perfectly symmetrical craters. A 15-minute uphill walk leads to the rim, where you can enjoy stunning panoramic views over the lake.
Grjótagjá — a lava cave filled with vivid blue water.
Dimmuborgir — an intricate maze of lava formations and basalt pillars with bizarre shapes that have inspired countless Icelandic folktales. Visitors can wander through the area on marked trails. This landscape and the surrounding hills were also chosen as filming locations for several scenes from the famous TV series Game of Thrones, particularly to portray the mysterious lands beyond the Wall.
The pseudocraters of Skútustaðagígar
Also nearby, don’t miss the spectacular geothermal area of Hverir, and if you still have time, head to nearby Viti Crater (Krafla) — a striking blue lake inside a volcanic crater that is both highly photogenic and easy to reach.
Fun Fact about Mývatn: Do you know what “Mývatn” means? Literally, “Lake of the Midges” — a reference to the enormous clouds of tiny insects (harmless but definitely annoying) that inhabit the area during summer. These insects play a crucial role in maintaining the delicate ecosystem, which is especially rich in aquatic birdlife.
For this reason, we strongly recommend wearing a mosquito net or at least a neck gaiter and sunglasses to protect your face during outdoor visits.
The Great Waterfalls of the North
In North Iceland, water takes on many different forms. In some places, rivers seem on the verge of exploding, roaring wildly as they carve through canyons and ancient lava rock with a force that feels as though it comes straight from the center of the Earth. Elsewhere, nature reveals a gentler side, yet one equally capable of creating landscapes so dramatic they seem almost deliberately designed.
The region’s three great waterfalls — Dettifoss, Goðafoss, and Rjúkandafoss — represent three completely different faces of Icelandic nature, united by the same primordial energy.
Dettifoss
Dettifoss is undoubtedly the most overwhelming of them all: monumental, powerful, a true force of nature. It’s no surprise that it is considered one of the most powerful waterfalls in Europe in terms of water volume.
The landscape surrounding it is barren, almost apocalyptic, as if nature itself had intentionally stripped everything away so nothing could distract from the sheer force and beauty of the falls. As you approach the main drop, the enormous cloud of spray lifted by the waterfall and carried by the wind surrounds everything in a constant mist, while the thunderous roar commands immediate respect.
It’s no surprise that director Ridley Scott chose this very setting for the iconic opening sequence of Prometheus. The film’s prologue begins here, where an alien figure observes the untouched landscape of a newly formed Earth before sacrificing itself to give rise to human life. In this way, the images of Dettifoss become a symbol of creation, destruction, and the birth of humanity itself.
East Side or West Side? One important thing to know is that there are no bridges connecting the two sides of the river near the waterfall, so you’ll need to decide in advance which side you want to visit.
East Side: To reach the eastern bank, you’ll need to drive along gravel road 864. Choose this side if you want a closer and more dramatic perspective of the waterfall.
From here, you can also continue a couple of kilometers further to reach the spectacular viewpoint overlooking Hafragilsfoss waterfall and the Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon.
West Side: This is by far the more tourist-friendly and easily accessible side. It can be reached via paved road 862, where you’ll find a parking area and an easy walking path leading to the waterfall’s edge.
Even from here, though, the wow factor is absolutely guaranteed.
These directions apply whether you’re arriving from the south, via Lake Mývatn, or from the north, via Ásbyrgi.
From both sides, a short walk also allows you to visit the nearby Selfoss waterfall.
Goðafoss
A few kilometers west of Dettifoss, Goðafoss offers a completely different kind of spectacle.
Known as the “Waterfall of the Gods,” it owes its name to a legendary episode in Icelandic history. According to tradition, in the year 1000 the lawspeaker Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði threw statues of the old Norse pagan gods into the waterfall following Iceland’s official conversion to Christianity.
The waterfall unfolds in a graceful semicircular arc, creating a scene that feels harmonious and almost mystical. Unlike the raw brutality of Dettifoss, here the dominant sensations are balance, elegance, and peace.
Rjukandafoss
Often overlooked by more classic tourist itineraries, Rjúkandafoss is one of the many waterfalls visible directly from Route 1 — the perfect stop while driving from Egilsstaðir to Lake Mývatn.
Located along the road leading toward the interior highlands, this 139-meter-high waterfall stands out for its series of cascades that appear to slide gently down the mountainside, wrapped in a thin veil of mist from which it takes its name: “the smoking waterfall”.
Húsavík
Often considered Iceland’s whale-watching capital, Húsavík is one of the best places in the country to join an organized whale-watching tour. The nutrient-rich waters just offshore attract a wide variety of marine species, including humpback whales, minke whales, and dolphins.
During our itinerary, thanks to ideal conditions — calm seas and sunny weather — we decided to try a three-hour boat tour ourselves with the company North Sailing. The tour cost 11,300 ISK per person (around €80), while the faster speedboat version lasts two hours and costs 19,700 ISK per person.
When we visited in September, booking in advance wasn’t necessary and we purchased our tickets directly at the harbor ticket office. However, if you’re planning this experience during the high season, booking ahead is definitely recommended. One option is checking tours on GetYourGuide.
One important thing to remember: wildlife sightings can never be guaranteed. In our case, we weren’t especially lucky — although we spotted a couple of whales and several blows in the distance, the boat never got particularly close during the surfacings. But in the end, that’s part of the beauty of nature too: it reveals itself on its own terms and in its own time, and that’s perfectly fine.
One final fun fact about Húsavík: in recent years, the town gained unexpected international fame thanks to the movie Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga.
The Tröllaskagi Peninsula
The Tröllaskagi Peninsula, located between Akureyri and Siglufjörður, is perhaps one of Iceland’s least talked-about regions — a remote land where steep mountains plunge into the sea, deep fjords, isolated lighthouses, and tiny fishing villages seem to appear out of nowhere.
Its name literally means “Peninsula of the Trolls” and after driving along roads squeezed between towering rock faces, it’s easy to understand why this place is so deeply connected to ancient Icelandic legends. The landscape here takes on such dramatic and mysterious shapes that it genuinely feels inhabited by mythological creatures.
Many of the surrounding peaks rise above 1,400 meters and remain snow-covered for much of the year, creating an extraordinary contrast with the deep blue waters of the fjords below.
Our road trip focused on a little-traveled yet incredibly scenic route offering breathtaking views over Iceland’s northern coastline, following roads 82 and 76.
Among the stops we’d highly recommend:
The picturesque fishing village of Siglufjörður, once the world’s herring-fishing capital, still commemorated today by a charming sculpture group on a small wooden pier at the entrance to the village.
The bright orange Siglunes lighthouse.
The blue-roofed church and dramatic cliffs of Hofsós.
Grafarkirkja, the historic turf-roofed church that looks as though it belongs to another era.
If you have some extra time, drive all the way to the small harbor of Reykir and join a boat tour to the island of Drangey, in the middle of Skagafjörður. Its towering 180-meter cliffs are home to huge numbers of seabirds, and puffins can sometimes still be spotted here until mid-August.
Westfjords
The Vestfirðir — more commonly known as the Westfjords — were, for us, the ultimate symbol of Iceland at its most remote and untamed.
This vast, jagged peninsula, shaped almost like a giant hand stretching into the ocean, is separated from the rest of the country by mountains and incredibly deep fjords that require long hours of driving to cross. Life here seems to move at a completely different pace from the rest of Iceland: distances feel endless, traffic is virtually nonexistent, and nature becomes the only true protagonist.
There are no cities in the Westfjords, nor the classic routes followed by organized tours. Instead, you’ll find narrow gravel roads clinging to dramatic cliffs with unbelievable views, and tiny villages inhabited by just a few dozen people.
If, like us, you only have a couple of days to explore the region, here are the stops you absolutely shouldn’t miss:
Dynjandi Waterfall. Dynjandi is easy to reach and has a parking area with facilities, from which a simple uphill trail leads toward the waterfall. Its shape resembles the white veil of a bride, widening gracefully as it cascades down the mountainside in a giant fan. The roar of the water accompanies visitors along the path to the top, while all around stretches a breathtaking landscape of fjords and high plateaus that conveys a profound sense of isolation.
The red beach of Rauðasandur and the nearby black church.
The towering cliffs of Látrabjarg, 440 meters high and 14 kilometers long, home to countless puffins until mid-August and considered the westernmost point in Europe.
The white beach of Örlygshöfn, washed by turquoise waters and facing the cliffs of Patreksfjörður, along with the nearby lighthouse.
If you still have time, continue to the village of Bíldudalur, explore the tip of Arnarfjörður, and even drive as far as Ísafjörður in the northern part of the Westfjords.
se vi rimane tempo andate anche al villaggio di Bíldudalur e fino alla punta dell’’Arnafjordur nonchè fino al Isafjordur nel nord dei Westfjords
Useful Tips for Exploring the Westfjords
Most roads are gravel, often full of potholes, so a 4x4 vehicle is absolutely essential.
Refuel whenever you have the chance — gas stations are few and far between.
More than anywhere else in Iceland, it’s important to organize your own meals and snacks in advance, because you’ll find very few services along the way.
If you have limited time and need to choose, prioritize the southern part of the Westfjords, which we found considerably more spectacular.
The Snæfellsnes Peninsula
On our way back from the Westfjords, we continued toward the Snæfellsnes Peninsula: a region so rich in natural beauty that, despite its small size, it could easily justify an entire trip to Iceland on its own.
Often described as “Iceland in miniature” this peninsula condenses many of the landscapes that have made the country world-famous into just a few dozen kilometers: dramatic sea cliffs, lighthouses, black beaches, fjords, volcanoes, lava fields, glaciers, and picturesque fishing villages.
The magic of Snæfellsnes, however, is inseparably tied to literature. It was the Snæfellsjökull glacier that inspired Jules Verne in his famous novel "Journey to the Center of the Earth". In the story, the crater of the volcano serves as the gateway to the depths of the Earth, where Professor Otto Lidenbrock and his nephew Axel descend following clues hidden in a runic manuscript — transforming this Icelandic mountain into one of the most iconic locations in adventure literature.
What Not to Miss on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula
Kirkjufell Mountain and Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall: without a doubt among the most recognizable and photographed locations in Iceland. This cone-shaped mountain, reflected in the waters of the nearby cascades, became globally famous thanks to Game of Thrones, where it appears as the “arrowhead mountain” in the visions of the Hound and Bran Stark.
The black church of Búðir, surrounded by lava fields.
Ytri Tunga Beach, known for its seal colony.
The black sand beach of Djúpalónssandur, with its spectacular rock formations.
The Malariff lighthouse and the nearby cliffs of Lóndrangar.
The Snæfellsjökull Glacier, where Jules Verne set the beginning of Journey to the Center of the Earth.
The dramatic cliffs of Arnarstapi.
The picturesque village of Stykkishólmur and the Súgandisey lighthouse overlooking Breiðafjörður Bay
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